Suit lapels are one of the most overlooked details in menswear, yet they frame the chest, shape the jacket and subtly signal everything from formality to personal taste. In this guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know about suit lapels, from their history and purpose to how to choose the right style and size when commissioning a bespoke suit in London.
What Is a Suit Lapel?
A lapel is the folded flap of fabric on the front of a jacket, formed where the jacket fronts are turned back and sewn into the collar. Historically, lapels evolved from military and riding coats in the 18th century, which could be buttoned up to the neck in cold weather or folded back for comfort and ease of movement.
Over time, that practical fold became a permanent feature, and eventually, a defining aesthetic element of tailored jackets. In short: Suits have lapels because they always have. But also because they balance proportions, frame the shirt and tie, and give structure to the upper body.
The Main Types of Suit Lapels Explained
Notch Lapel
The most common lapel style you’ll come across.
What it looks like: A small “notch” where the lapel meets the collar.
Characteristics:
· Versatile and timeless
· Suitable for business suits, everyday tailoring and weddings
· Universally flattering
Best for: First bespoke or custom suits, office wear, understated elegance.
Peak Lapel
Sharper, bolder and unmistakably confident.
What it looks like: The lapel points upward toward the shoulder.
Characteristics:
· Strong, structured lines
· Creates a broader, more authoritative chest
· Traditionally more formal
Best for: Double-breasted suits, formal occasions, statement tailoring.
Shawl Lapel
Smooth, continuous and unapologetically elegant.
What it looks like: A rounded lapel with no notch or peak.
Characteristics:
· Minimalist and refined
· No breaks or angles
· Traditionally reserved for eveningwear
Best for: Dinner suits, black tie, weddings after dark.
A Brief History of Lapels in British Tailoring
British tailoring has long favoured balance and restraint. In the 1930s, lapels widened dramatically, echoing broader shoulders and a more powerful silhouette. By the 1960s, lapels slimmed down as mod fashion took hold, particularly in London.
Today, lapels have settled into a more timeless middle ground, with subtle variations that allow a suit to feel contemporary without chasing trends. On Savile Row, lapels are less about fashion statements and more about proportion and customer preference.
Which Suit Lapel Should You Choose?
Choosing the right lapel isn’t about rules, it’s about context.
Consider:
· The suit’s purpose: Business, wedding, eveningwear or casual tailoring all suggest different lapels.
· Your personal style: Conservative, expressive or somewhere in between.
A good tailor won’t push you into a lapel style, they’ll guide you toward one that feels natural the moment you put the jacket on.
Why Do Jackets Have Lapel Holes?
That small buttonhole on the left lapel isn’t decorative by accident. Its origins are rooted firmly in function rather than flourish. Traditionally, the lapel hole was designed to hold a boutonnière — a fresh flower worn for formal occasions, weddings and social events where dress codes were closely observed. In Victorian Britain, it also served a more sombre purpose, allowing gentlemen to wear mourning flowers as a discreet mark of respect. Beyond this, lapel holes were often used to display military regimental insignia or club badges, signalling affiliation and status in an era when such details carried real social weight.
Today, the lapel hole remains a quiet but purposeful feature of a well-made jacket. It’s most commonly used for wedding flowers, particularly on morning coats and formal suits, but it has also found new relevance as a place for enamel pins, charitable badges or subtle personal statements.
Increasingly, clients are also opting for a flower loop — a small, discreet loop of thread or fabric stitched behind the lapel. This allows a boutonnière or poppy to be secured neatly without the need for pins, keeping the flower perfectly in place while avoiding unnecessary damage to the lapel cloth. It’s a subtle detail, but one that protects the integrity of the jacket and reflects the kind of thoughtful craftsmanship that good tailoring is built on.
Whether worn or left empty, a properly finished lapel hole is a hallmark of considered tailoring, and one that, at Savile Row Company Custom Made, is treated with the care it deserves.
Lapel Size: Why It Matters More Than You Think
Style isn’t just about which lapel you choose, it’s also about how wide it is.
Smaller Lapels
· Clean, modern appearance
· Work well on shorter jackets or slimmer frames
· Popular for contemporary business suits
Wider Lapels
· More traditional and authoritative
· Balance broader shoulders and chests
· Ideal for double-breasted or statement suits
A made-to-measure or bespoke suit allows your lapels to be scaled precisely to your proportions (something off-the-peg simply can’t offer).
Custom Lapels at Savile Row Company Custom Made
When you commission a suit with us, lapels aren’t an afterthought.
We offer:
· Notch, peak and shawl lapels
· Custom lapel widths
· Contrast stitching
· Hand-finished lapel buttonholes
Every decision is made with the full picture in mind: your build, your lifestyle and how the suit will be worn (not just how it looks on a hanger). Book an appointment today.
FAQs
Are peak lapels only for double-breasted suits?
No, while traditional, peak lapels also work beautifully on single-breasted jackets when balanced correctly.
Do wider lapels make you look bigger?
They can create a stronger silhouette, but proportion is key. A tailor will adjust lapel width to suit your frame.
Should I wear something in my lapel hole?
Only if it feels appropriate. Weddings and formal events are ideal; everyday wear is best kept simple.
Are lapels purely decorative today?
Mostly, yes. But their origins are functional, and their impact on fit and style is very real.